Grandfather Clock Chime Block
Grandfather Clock Chime Block
Grandfather Clock Chime Block

Grandfather Clock Chime Block

$100.00

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Grandfather Clock Chime Block

Chime block in V shape for many grandfather clocks. This fits many of the German made post 1950 floor clocks. Mount it to the back of the clock case with the screws that come with the chime block.

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SKU: GO1C Category: Tags: ,
GO1C: $100.00
Mechanical clock chime rods for post 1950 mechanical clocks. Offering the chime block complete with the rods. Clockworks
Chimeblock and RodsWhy the entire chimeblockOrdering the chime blockChime Hammer Adjustment

Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Clock Chimeblock and Rods

Why we offer only the complete chime-block

We now only offer the complete clock chime-block and rods. The rods are a press fit into the chime-block by machines and it is difficult to get a single rod out. Other times there are threads that go into the block but have such a secure tight fit, you cannot remove them.

Trying to do so would result in more rods breaking. Also there are various threads on the rods that are the replacements and it can create much confusion. It is for these reasons that we now offer the complete clock chime-block and rods.

Overall, it is a tricky thing to get the correct thread size for the individual rod in a chime-block and rod set and have it fit perfect. Not to mention, when the chime-block rod is not the correct size, often enough it gets sent back. Then we get into the situation of trying to swap it out over and over.

Moreover, all of it eventually ends up being a return for a complete chime-block and rods set. So, in the long run it is best to just get a new chime block and rod set from the beginning. That will save a lot of time and frustration.

Chime-block and rods volume

The volume of the clock chime is not alterable by means of the chime-block and rods or the hammer adjustment. These parts have nothing to do with making the clock louder or softer. The only thing that can make the clock louder or quieter is to move the clock case.

If the clock is on a hard wood surface it will be louder. A rug will be quieter. The proximity to the wall can also alter the sound. It has nothing to do with the chime-block and rods.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2022

Clock Chime Block Styles

The first step in purchasing a new chime block is to determine the chime block style that is in the clock.

The Styles are side, bottom and back strike.

Figure out which style you need. Then, count how many rods are in the chime block. Measure through the chime block to get the length of the longest rod.

Correspondingly, find this information on the drop down list for the correct chime block and rods.

Bottom Strike Style A

Chime block style A For bottom strike and side strike units.  

Side Strike Style B

Chime block style B For side strike units. Occasionally, you can also use this for back strike diagonal Westminster units.

Back Strike Style C

Chime block style C is for floor clock models (and some wall clocks) with two rows of hammers on the back of the clock movement.

Chime sound in Clock Chime Block Styles

No matter which Clock Chime Block Style you need, there has to be some adjustments made. If the clock chime does not have a clear, crisp tone, do not panic. It could just be a matter of adjusting the hammers on the rods.

The hammer heads are on wires which are meant to be bent. Do this with your fingers, while the hammer head is down.

Just bend the wire that the hammer head is on, one at a time. Keep the hammer head about 1/8” from the rod when it’s at rest. In other words, in the up position. Bend one at a time.

Then, lift and drop it to see if there is a nice crisp tone. Subsequently, do this right down the line with each hammer on whatever chime block style. Make sure each one has a nice tone. In the long run, the chime will sound perfect.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2022

Why does Chime Hammer Positioning Need to Occur

Mechanical clock chime hammer positioning is easy to do. It only involves bending the hammer head wires. Upon the initial installation, this was done by the clock maker as well.

When replacing a clock movement you need to bend the chime hammers to the chime rods. This is why the hammer heads are on bendable wires.

They are meant to be bent into the perfect position. It is not uncommon to bend them an inch this way or that way. The clock movement will not have the hammers in the perfect spot to make the correct sound when hitting the rods. This is why chime hammer positioning is so important.

Clock Chime Hammer Positioning

A mechanical clock movement has hammers that need to be bent into their final position. The correct clock-chime hammer position needs the tops of the hammer heads to be about 1/4 inch down from the chime block.

The hammers need to be 1/8 inch away from the rod. This would be when it is at rest. In other words, bend the hammer wires so the head is 1/8 away from the chime rod. This spacing between the head and the rod is so it will not thud or double strike.

Tuning the mechanical clock chime

Repeat this process for each wire, one hammer at a time, down the line. Continue in this manner until you can lift and drop the hammer to create a crisp sound. If each hammer head is done this way the clock will have a nice song in the end.

Often a customer will say the sound is not correct. This is due to improper hammer positioning. When performing the above directions correctly the sound is beautiful.

Positioning the 340 / 341 series

The 340 and 341 Hermle clock movement series went through a change in the hammer wires. The hammer heads were on wires, but now they are made on flat bars. The positioning is still the same, however it is a little more difficult to bend them.

The hammer head is on the skinny end of the bar. The bar gets wider as it goes back toward the roll pin.

With needle nose pliers, bend this bar where it goes from skinny to wide. The overall assembly will be slightly higher from the chime block. That is, if you are swapping out the movement with the older style wire hammer head rod.

It is an option to raise the entire chimeblock with a shim to help with this. It is not an absolute requirement. Bending the hammer arms are usually sufficient.

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

For a clean crisp chime sound

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

Adjust the hammer wires

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

Should be about 1/8 away at rest

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

Sometimes they are bent to the extreme

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2022

Grandfather Clock Chime Block

Chime block in a V shape form for many grandfather clocks. This fits many of the German made post 1950 floor clocks. Use the screws that come with the chime block to mount it to the back of the clock case. You need to measure the length of the longest rod from tip to tip through the block.

Mounting the Chime Block

The chime block comes with the four bolts that screw it in place, with 4 washers. Of course, you will need four holes through a back board to be able to have this mount in the air on the back side of the clock. Usually you attach this back board to, or near, the back panel of the clock case.

Additional information

Weight5 lbs
Rods

8 rods 12 inch, 8 rods 22 inch, 8 rods 27 inch, 12 rods 25 inch

33
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Dr James Hammond
Dr James Hammond
23 days ago

Hi Guys – could you tell me which Chime block to I need for a Hermle 461-853 Westminister movement?

Michael Keays
Michael Keays
1 year ago

I have a model 299M grandfather clock from the Emperor clock company. Of the 12 rod chimes it has in total, the longest one of the four on the left hand side when you face the clock has broken. It is 26.5 inches long, from the tip of the chime to the end of the brass cylinder at the other end. Do you have the chime set to replace this set of 12 rod chimes (as you look at the clock, 4 on the left, and 8 on the right). I can send three photos of the broken chime and chime block if that would help. I just need to know where to send them to. Thank you, Michael.

A.A.
A.A.
1 year ago

My clock’s chime rods bang against each other when the clock chimes. How can I stop them doing that..short of trying to bend them apart and risk breaking them.

A.A.
A.A.
1 year ago

Sorry for the late reply. I found a way….I cut a small piece of white foam packing material and threaded it on to one of the two colliding rods from the lower end The material created a barrier between the rods and now they don’t bang against each other any more! They sound fine too…no muffling. No bending needed!

Steve
Steve
1 year ago

I need to buy a SKU: GO1C-1225 with 8 rods only, tuned to Westminster Chime. I need 2 if possible. Do you have these?

Steve
Steve
1 year ago

Hi James, do you have a circa 1950-1970 style in SKU: GO1C? The one your link lead me to looks like a Hermle modern gong block. I need the style of SKU: GO1C but with 8 rods tuned to Westminster Chime. I require two of them.

Steve

Stephen Brown
Stephen Brown
1 year ago

Thanks – tried to order two, but at checkout it told me you don’t ship to Australia. Will have to keep looking elsewhere. Thanks anyway.

Steve

Kate
Kate
2 years ago

Will the V rod Chime Block work the same as the Straight Rod Chime Block?

John Piper
John Piper
2 years ago

I need a chime block containing 8 rods, “v” shape style, rear mount style. This is for a Diamantini Domeniconi Grandfather clock with a FHS (Franz Hermle) 453-051 H, 94 cm. movement. The original chime block has the number “10” engraved on it and the longest rod is 19 1/2″ long. It is a rear mount with 4 fasteners, the top two fasteners located 3 1/8 inches apart, the bottom two fasteners 2 5/8″ apart, with the bottom two fasteners being 2 5/8″ inches below the top two.

Robert Berkowitz
Robert Berkowitz
3 years ago

I have a Charles R Sligh grandfather clock with a back strike. It is a triple chime with 4 rods on the left and 8 on the right. Unfortunately, I cant find the model number only the historical register number on the plate. Would this be the correct chime block to purchase? Thank you!

Shari
Shari
3 years ago

I have a Ridgeway grandfather clock #266. The longest rod appears to be between 25 and 26 inches. Do I need a 27 inch rod.

Shari
Shari
3 years ago

I have a 12 chime Ridgeway Grandfather clock model #266. But the longest rod appears to be between over 25 and 26 inches. Do I need to order a 27 “

Marc A Sansotta
Marc A Sansotta
4 years ago

One of my clocks is a Baldwin grandfather clock. I think it’s identical to a Howard Miller. I’m want to replace the v-shaped chime block, 27 in., 4 rods one side, 8 the other side (3 melodies). I hope the part that you show is a perfect match. The style of the Baldwin clock is CV746N.

Rendy
Rendy
4 years ago

Are the chime rods with 12 rods and 27 inch support in hermle 1171-850 with 114cm movement ?

Tyler Petersen
Tyler Petersen
4 years ago

I’m looking for a chime block that has 12 rods but the longest rod 18 inch

John Westrum
John Westrum
4 years ago

Hi. I have a Howard Miller 601-193. The chime block has been removed and is missing! I have 12 hammers; eight on one side and four opposing about 7/8-1″ apart. I do not have the old chime block. Can you suggest or direct me to a potential replacement. Thanks.

mark gottula
mark gottula
4 years ago

I need to buy an 8 rod , rear mount style , V shape set of chime rods. But the hammers on my movement are 4 inches apart. I have a 72 RK 93cm (Kieninger) set of works and I am trying to match the chime rods to it. I do not have a set of Chime rods to match it to.