Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Clock Chimeblock and Rods
Why we offer only the complete chime-block
We now only offer the complete chime-block and rods. The rods are pressed into the chime-block by machines and is difficult to get a single rod out. Other times they are threaded into the block but secured so tight you cannot remove them. Also there are various threads on the rods that are the replacements and it can create much confusion. It is a tricky thing to get the correct thread size for the individual chime rod and have it fit perfect. Very often the chime rod ordered is returned and swapped out a few times. Only to ultimately returning all and going with the complete chime-block and rods anyway.
Chime-block and rods volume
The sound of the clock chime is not alterable by means of the chime-block and rods or the hammer adjustment. To make the clock louder or softer in volume it just has nothing to do with these parts. The only thing that can make the clock louder or quieter is to move the clock case. If the clock is on a hard wood surface it will be louder, a rug will be quieter. It has nothing to do with the chime-block and rods.
Clock chime block and rods
The first step is to figure out what style chime block and rods is needed for the clock. There are side, bottom and back strike style chime blocks. With the chime block style selected the next step is to count how many rods are needed. Rod length off the longest rod measuring through the chime block is needed next. Find this information on the corresponding drop down list for the correct clock chime block and rods.
Chime block style A is for the bottom strike units, and also can be used on the side strike units as well.
The style B is for the side strike units or in some situations the back strike diagonal style Westminster units.
The style C chime block is for floor clock models (and some wall clocks) with two rows of hammers on the back of the clock movement.
If the clock does not sound good this does not mean you need a new chime block. It could just be a matter of adjusting the hammers to the rods in a better way. This is just done with fingers bending the wires on the clock that the hammer heads are on. The hammer heads are on wires as they are meant to bent into final position. The hammer head should be about 1/8 inch from the rod when at rest. Just bend one at a time and lift and drop to see if you have a nice crisp tone. This is done right down the line for each hammer to make each one a nice tone. In the end it will play the song perfect.
Why Chime Hammer Positioning is required
Mechanical Clock Chime Hammer Positioning is easy to do, and only involves bending the hammer heads wires. This was done when the clock maker who originally installed the movement did also. Upon replacing a clock movement it is required to bend the hammer heads to the chime rods. This is why the hammer heads are on such bendable wires as they are to be bent into the perfect position. It is not uncommon to bend them an inch this way or that way.
Positioning the chime hammers
A mechanical clock movement has hammers that have to be bent into final position. It should be positioned so the tops of the hammer heads are about 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch down from the chime block. The hammer heads should rest about 1/8 inch away from the rod it will strike. Bend the hammer wires as to make the head about 1/8 away from the chime rod in other words. This spacing between the head and the rod is so it will not thud or double hit. Down the line and one hammer at a time this is done until you can lift it and drop the hammer to create a crisp sound. If each hammer head is done this way the clock will have a nice song in the end.