Modern 1161-Series Clock Anchor Height Issue
The cause is the anchor height
The new style 1161-series does not have an adjustable anchor height adjustment on the movement. However it does still need to be adjusted when the clock ticks more than one tooth at a time. When not observed usually the clock will go tick tick - tock tock instead of the usual tick tock. This is caused from the anchor being set too high in the escapement. Anchor looks just like an anchor on a boat sort of and it resides on a arbor going from front to back of the movement plates. The adjustment on this is sort of harsh but it works. The idea is to put the anchor deeper into the teeth of the escape wheel.
1161-series caution note
Remove the clock weight before messing with these components. If the weight is on the clock when manipulating the height of the escapement anchor bad things happen. What happens is if the anchor goes to high at any point of the adjustment the escape wheel will do a crazed spin fast and wild. When you put the anchor back down some to correct this, the teeth on the escape wheel will be damaged. With a loud crunch the anchor reengages with the escape wheel and stops it violently and the escapement is rendered useless.
The new style verses the old
On the older units there is a small plate holding the anchors arbor, and this plate is secured with oblong holes. The hole are oblong so you can loosen the screws that hold the plate and slide the plate up or down as needed. The new style does not have this feature and instead have sort of a finger with a hole in it. The finger is on a brass plate but this plate does not have oblong holes and is not adjustable.
Bend down the finger with a hole in it, that holds the anchors arbor, down slightly. You can use needle nose pliers for this, just a slight twist so it is bent down more. This will have the anchor engage deeper into the escape wheel and correct the issue. It will make the pendulum swing wider and also make the clock tick and tock one time per rocking back and forth. If you go too low, it will not let the escape wheel spin at all.
1161-Series Clock Anchor Height Conclusion
The modern 1161-Series clock anchor height issue is a rare thing that happens. It is not common for the plate to be stamped in a way the height is too high up, but it does happen. The fix is fast and easy although it may seem like a harsh thing to do. If everything goes south we have those plates and the post up top in stock. ALl of these parts, in fact all parts for this are available from clockworks.com.
German Mechanical Clock Hand Installation
The installation of the clock hands on a German mechanical movement is reverse of removal. If either the movement was replaced, or the hands are new, the minute hand must be adjusted. This is so it will point to the correct time when it chimes.
Installing the hour hand
First comes the hour hand as a friction fit. Put the hand on its round post and twist and push toward the front front of the dial. Be sure it is not in contact with the dial at any point of its travel in the circle. This includes the base of the hour hand, it cannot rub against the hole in the clock face itself. As its only a friction fit, it can be turned to point to whatever hour it is, just with your fingers.
Installing the minute hand
The minute hand installation is done by putting the square hole in the hand, on the square post of the hand shaft. The bottom of the minute hand cannot be rubbing the hour hand tube or the hour hand. If it is, the hour hand has to be set lower on its tube. With the minute hand on its square post now its time to put the nut on. The nut goes on finger tight and then a little bit more with needle nose pliers to make it secure.
Mechanical Clock Chime On Time
These are the directions to get a German mechanical clock to chime on time. This means having the clock hands point to the right spot when the clock chimes. When replacing a clock movement, or getting new hands, either one, you will notice it will chime 5 minutes before it is supposed to, or 10 min after, something like this. This page explains how to correct this situation. It is unbelievably fast and easy to do.
Working with the minute hand
After a new mechanical movement is installed, or if you are just installing a new set of hands, you will notice the clock will not chime at the time it's supposed to. To correct this, take the minute hand off of the clock. This is the longer of the two hands. With this minute hand off of the clock, turn it upside down and you will see it has a square hole where it attaches to the clock. This square hole is in a bushing that will rotate WITHIN the minute hand itself.
So, all you have to do is just use needle nose pliers to turn this bushing ever so slightly. Put the hand back on the clock and see if it’s pointing to the correct place where it chimed. If it is, then you are all set. If it is still not right, take the hand off and try again. Once you get the minute hand to point where it just chimed you then set to the correct time.
It is really that easy. You do not have to mess with the clock at all, only the hand itself. In other words, to put it in a silly way, take the minute hand off of the clock and walk to the garage with it. Take it far, far away from the clock. When in your garage take needle nose pliers and turn the bushing within the hand itself. Then walk back to the clock and put it on. See if it's now pointing to the right spot. Sounds silly but you get the idea!
Changing a Clock Cable
Changing a Clock Cable is done when the clock cable is broken and you order a new one from clockworks.com. This section describes how to swap out a broken clock cable with a new one. We are referring to post WW2 modern grandfather units of German origin in this section. However all have a similar method no matter what the cable driven clock your working with. The swapping is easy because there is a big hole and a little hole connected on the cable mount. The cable end fits into the big hole, and slides over to seat into the little hole. When locked in, its not going anywhere and seats in secure. This is the same basic theme on both ends of the cable, one slot being in the cable drum itself and the other on the movement.
While the movement is installed
In some few instances the strike or chime cable can be swapped without movement removal. You maybe able to remove the cable and reinstall it because the drums maybe accessible from the side access panels on the side of the case. Removal is done by lifting up the cable from its oblong hole and slide it over to the big side. One side of the cable is easy, the side that is attached to the movement itself. The other side of the cable goes into the drum itself and is removed the same way.
To get to the slot in the drum, you will need to spin it. The cable drum is made to spin in one direction only of course, so spin it until you see the slot for the end. There is a plastic cover over the drum sometimes, this can stay on usually. If you cant get at the drum to spin it and remove the cable, you will need to remove the movement.
Changing a Clock Cable - Movement Removed
Most times it is required to remove the movement from the clock case. This is described in another section. With the movement out it is so much easier. You can flip the movement over and spin the drums to remove the ends. Installation is reverse of course and upon reinstalling the movement its the normal set up of any clock.