Please view these information tabs to learn about Replacement Electric Clock Motor Movements.
Electric clock motor description
None of the electric clock motors come with hands or hardware. This is due to them becoming harder to come by. So the electric clock motor description of the ones available are below.
Likewise, all of these units are meant as replacements for existing movements that are worn out or broken. Consider using a battery movement if building a new clock. The most popular electric movement is the Hansen electric motor.
These come in either bottom or rear time set. Often, these were popular with industrial and commercial applications as well as street clocks. In addition, the product description will explain how to get the proper hand shaft length on these units.
Antique electric clocks motor with wooden cases
In the early 80's there were electric mantle clocks with wooden cases. Unfortunately there is no hope for these units. They are no longer in production, however there may be alternate movement ideas available. This description is in another section and could save the clock from the town dump.
Electric clock motor hands
If you need hands, it may be necessary to modify some long quartz hands to fit it.
An electric clock hand solution
It is pretty easy to modify high torque quartz movement hands to fit. They have proven to work fairly well on the Hansen electric clock motors. So, simply file the minute hand hole with a needle file.
This will allow it to fit on the hand shaft of the Hansen unit. Of course, the hour hand will fit fine as this is a friction fit. In fact, just push the hour hand down onto the handshaft as far as it will go without touching the face of the clock.
The obsolete antique electric clock
In the 1920's through the 1950's there were many mechanical clocks that had an electric motor to run them.
Unfortunately most of those wonderful electro-mechanical shelf clocks have parts that are no longer available. Some of those units were very impressive, combining the electrical motor with a quality brass movement. This then eliminates the requirement of winding the clock for it to function.
Pending doom to the electric clock
If you need an obsolete antique motor, all one can do is throw the clock in the trash usually. However, it maybe possible to find someone to rebuild the coil if that is the issue.
We at clockworks.com do not perform such service however. We found it is often unsuccessful and would need to charge way to much for this to happen. In the end the clock would still be left with a motor that is old and worn. This is found not to be a viable long term solution and ultimately a waist of money.
Alternate units for the obsolete
There are alternate units one may consider if stuck on keeping the clock case. Options include a new wind up movement or switching to a movement that is run by a battery instead. These conversions have a further explanation in more detail in another section.
Quartz units require the center hole of the clock dial to be 3/8 wide. Drilling the 3/8 wide hole in the clock dial may have to be done because many of the electric units have a smaller size hole.
Quartz units have a 5/16 wide post to go through that 3/8 wide dial hole. It is a challenge to convert to a quartz unit, and not always successful. The electric clock movement that is now obsolete can have a replacement with a quality mechanical unit instead.
The obsolete antique electric clock - Conclusion
In conclusion, if you are going with a quartz replacement please know the project can go south. An error in drilling the dial out for example could render the dial useless.
The clock dial is unobtainable so the project is ditched. Left with a wood case with nothing to do. Sad story but it is what it is maybe best to just buy a new clock if it gets to that point.
For a functioning clock and stay high quality a mechanical unit is best. The mechanical unit would not require the drilling out of the clock dial. It will mount to the wood case and be a back wind instead of plugging into the wall.
Electric Clock - Mechanical Substitutes
All of the antique clock movements that are electric and have a wood clock case are obsolete. They are no longer available and not worth repairing. Parts are not available, the movement is useless and the clock looks like its heading for the dump. Such as shame when the clock is part of the family history.
There is something that can be done in this situation. Putting a quality mechanical unit as a substitute in the clock case could save the clock and have it running again. It would be a wind up mechanical unit and it will run 8 days every time its fully wound up. The clock will be functioning again and with a high quality movement.
Nice substitutes for the electric clock
Having a back wind mechanical unit such as one of these, there are no concerns with drilling holes in the clock dial to wind it up. Now lets look at some mechanical substitutes for the obsolete electric clock movements.
The Hermle 130-678 clock movement
The 130-678 unit is a bell strike unit that comes with the bells on it. 130-678 is the easiest unit to adapt to a clock case that contained an obsolete electric clock movement. This unit mounts to the wooden clock case with some wood screws only. Needs with it >new handsthis link
- The winders are on the back, no dial holes to drill out
- No chimeblock to mount because the movement comes with bells on it
- Compact movement fits into the tightest of places
The Hermle 130-627 clock movement
The 130-627 unit is a bottom 3 hammer strike, so if the current electric movement has three rods below, this will work with it. If anything other than this as far as the strike goes, it would need to also get the chime block with the movement.
This unit will take chime block style A with 3 rods and most likely 7 inch length. The length of the rods does not matter so much, just the longer the rod the deeper the tone. This also needs new hands for the new movement. any of the German mechanical clock hands will fit.
Hansen Bottom-Set Clock Motor
Bottom set electric clock movement. Movement is 5' high x 3' wide x 1 15/16' deep. Handshaft is the shaft that the hands go on, from the front plate of the movement all the way out.