Mechanical Clock Chime Rods

Mechanical clock chime rods for post 1950 mechanical clocks. Offering the chime block complete with the rods installed tuned as needed. Clockworks

Chimeblock and RodsWhy the entire chimeblockOrdering the chime blockChime Hammer Adjustment

Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Clock Chimeblock and Rods

Why we offer only the complete chime-block

We now only offer the complete clock chime-block and rods . The rods are pressed into the chime-block by machines and it is difficult to get a single rod out. Other times they are threaded into the block but secured so tight you cannot remove them. Trying to do so would result in more rods breaking. Also there are various threads on the rods that are the replacements and it can create much confusion. It is for these reasons that we now offer the complete clock chime-block and rods.

Overall, it is a tricky thing to get the correct thread size for the individual rod in a chime-block and rod set and have it fit perfect. Not to mention, when the chime-block rod is not the correct size, often enough it gets sent back. Then we get into the situation of trying to swap it out over and over. Moreover, all of it eventually ends up being a return for a complete chime-block and rods set. So, in the long run it is best to just get a new chime block and rod set from the beginning. That will save a lot of time and frustration.

Chime-block and rods volume

The volume of the clock chime is not alterable by means of the chime-block and rods or the hammer adjustment. These parts have nothing to do with making the clock louder or softer. The only thing that can make the clock louder or quieter is to move the clock case. If the clock is on a hard wood surface it will be louder. A rug will be quieter. The proximity to the wall can also alter the sound. It has nothing to do with the chime-block and rods.

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Clock Chime Block Styles

The first step in purchasing a new chime block is to determine the chime block style that is in the clock. The Styles are side, bottom and back strike. Figure out which style you have. Then, count how many rods are in the chime block. Measure through the chime block to get the length of the longest rod. Correspondingly, find this information on the drop down list for the correct chime block and rods.

Bottom Strike Style A

Chime block style A For bottom strike and side strike units.  

Side Strike Style B

Chime block style B For side strike units. Occasionally, this may also be used for back strike diagonal Westminster units.

Back Strike Style C

Chime block style C is for floor clock models (and some wall clocks) with two rows of hammers on the back of the clock movement.

Chime sound in Clock Chime Block Styles

No matter which Clock Chime Block Style you have, there has to be some adjustments made. If the clock chime does not have a clear, crisp tone, do not panic. It could just be a matter of adjusting the hammers on the rods. The hammer heads are on wires which are meant to be bent. You do this with your fingers, while the hammer head is down. Just bend the wire that the hammer head is on, one at a time. Keep the hammer head about 1/8” from the rod when it’s at rest. In other words, in the up position. Bend one at a time. Then, lift and drop it to see if there is a nice crisp tone. Subsequently, do this right down the line with each hammer on whatever chime block style you have. Make sure each one has a nice tone. In the long run, the chime will sound perfect.
The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Why Chime Hammer Positioning is required

Mechanical clock chime hammer positioning is easy to do, and only involves bending the hammer head wires. Upon the initial installation, this was done by the clock maker as well. When replacing a clock movement you need to bend the chime hammers to the chime rods. This is why the hammer heads are on bendable wires. They are meant to be bent into the perfect position. It is not uncommon to bend them an inch this way or that way. The clock movement will not have the hammers in the perfect spot to make the correct sound when hitting the rods. This is why chime hammer positioning is so important.

Clock Chime Hammer Positioning

A mechanical clock movement has hammers that need to be bent into their final position. The clock-chime hammer position should be so the tops of the hammer heads are about 1/4 inch down from the chime block. The hammers need to be 1/8 inch away from the rod when at rest. In other words, bend the hammer wires so the head is 1/8 away from the chime rod. This spacing between the head and the rod is so it will not thud or double strike.

Tuning the mechanical clock chime

Down the line, and one hammer at a time, repeat this process. Continue in this manner until you can lift and drop the hammer to create a crisp sound. If each hammer head is done this way the clock will have a nice song in the end. Often a customer will say the sound is not correct. It is because of improper hammer positioning that this occurs. When you perform the above directions correctly the sound is beautiful.

Positioning the 340 / 341 series

The 340 and 341 Hermle clock movement series went through a change in the hammer wires. The hammer heads used to be on wires now they are made on flat bars. This is dealt with in the same way as above, it is just not as easy to bend. The hammer head is on the skinny end of the bar, the bar gets wider as it goes back toward the roll pin. The point to bend this bar is at the place where it goes from skinny to wide with needle nose pliers. The overall assembly will be higher from the chime block slightly. That is if swapping out the movement with the wire hammer head rod older style. It is an option to raise the entire chimeblock with a shim underneath it to help with this. It is not an absolute requirement, bending the hammer arms are usually sufficient.

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

For a clean crisp chime sound

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

Adjust the hammer wires

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

Should be about 1/8 away at rest

Mechanical Clock-Chime Hammer Positioning

Sometimes they are bent extreme

The content of this website is copyright by Clockworks and written by James Stoudenmire in year 2020

Mechanical Clock Chime Rods

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    Grandfather Clock Chime-block Back-Strike

    Grandfather Clock Chime-block Back-Strike is mounted to the back of the clock case. The rods already installed into the block and tuned. To get the correct block Count the rods needed in the block. Measured by the length of the longest rod through its mounting block.

    StyleCstr8: $80.00$100.00
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    turned_in_out Chime Accessories

    Wall Clock Coil Gong

    Wall Clock Coil Gong 4 3/4 diameter with a brass center bushing. The gong mount is included and this will be mounted to the back of the clock case. There is a screw in the base that will come out, and go through the center bushing too mount this. The strike hammer on the movement would need to be bent... View Product

    GO4: $15.00
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    Clock Chime-Block Bottom Strike

    This is a Clock Chime-Block for a Bottom Strike mechanical clock movement. The length is the longest rod within the block from end to end. This mounts to the bottom of the clock case so the hammers can chime the song.

    GO1A: $40.00$80.00
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    Clock Chime-Block Side Strike

    This is a Clock Chime-Block for a Side Strike mechanical clock movement. Available in 5 rod for Westminster units or 8 rods for Triple Chime clock movements. The length is the longest rod within the block from end to end.

    GO1B: $50.00$80.00
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    Grandfather Clock Chime Block

    Chime block in V shape for many grandfather clocks. This fits many of the German made post 1950 floor clocks. Will mount to the back of the clock case with included screws.

    GO1C: $70.00$120.00
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    turned_in_out Hardware for Clocks

    Clock Chime block Mounts 2 washers 2 bolts

    These are the screws and washer mounts the chime block to the clock case. The chime block has threaded holes usually and these screws go through the case and into the chime block. These are the universal thread size for most chime blocks.

    CBMOUNT: $5.00
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    turned_in_out Chime Accessories

    Mantle Clock Coil Gong

    Mantle clock coil gong 2 3/4 diameter with a brass end. The coil gong includes the mounting base, this base mounts to the clock case by wood screws. This gong has the mounting bushing on the side where it will mount to the base.

    GO5: $15.00
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    turned_in_out Chime Accessories

    Antique Rear-Mount Clock Gong

    Rear mounted Antique new old stock clock gong. Has been sitting new for years and may have some surface rust. Center mounted with a round coil gong used for wall clocks.

    GO40: $30.00
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    Side Chime-Block Westminster Clock

    This is a Chime-Block for a Side Chime Westminster mechanical clock movement. The length of the chime rod is measured overall and through the block itself. This measurement is 13 3/4 inches for that longest rod all the way through.

    GO1-BFlat: $70.00
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    Brass Bell For Strike

    5 1/8" Wide round brass bell for a bell strike clock movement. Has a hole in the top and can be screwed to the wooden case. Typically mounts on the top side roof or bracket for an above strike hammer movement.

    BrassBell: $30.00
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    turned_in_out Hardware for Clocks

    Clock Chime Selector Rod

    Clock chime selector rod provides an alternative to the chime selection switch. (The switch that would typically come through the dial at 3 o'clock.)

    SelectorRod: $15.00
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    Westminster Clock Chime Block

    A 5 rod chime block for Westminster mechanical clocks. The longest rod measures 7 1/2 inches from one end to the other through the block. This can be used for a side hammer Westminster unit or a bottom hammer unit.

    GO1D-5/7.5: $40.00