Grandfather Clock Chime Block

Why we offer only the complete chime-block

We now only offer the complete clock chime-block and rods. The rods are pressed into the chime-block by machines and it is difficult to get a single rod out. Other times they are threaded into the block but secured so tight, cannot remove them. Trying to do so would result in more rods breaking. Also there are various threads on the rods that are the replacements and it can create much confusion. It is for these reasons that we now offer the complete clock chime-block and rods.

Overall, it is a tricky thing to get the correct thread size for the individual rod in a chime-block and rod set and have it fit perfect. Not to mention, when the chime-block rod is not the correct size, often enough it gets sent back. Then we get into the situation of trying to swap it out over and over. Moreover, all of it eventually ends up being a return for a complete chime-block and rods set. So, in the long run it is best to just get a new chime block and rod set from the beginning. That will save a lot of time and frustration.

Chime-block and rods volume

The volume of the clock chime is not alterable by means of the chime-block and rods or the hammer adjustment. These parts have nothing to do with making the clock louder or softer. The only thing that can make the clock louder or quieter is to move the clock case. If the clock is on a hard wood surface it will be louder. A rug will be quieter. The proximity to the wall can also alter the sound. It has nothing to do with the chime-block and rods.

Clock Chime Block Styles

The first step in purchasing a new chime block is to determine the chime block style that is in the clock. The Styles are side, bottom and back strike. Figure out which style is needed. Then, count how many rods are in the chime block. Measure through the chime block to get the length of the longest rod. Correspondingly, find this information on the drop down list for the correct chime block and rods.

Bottom Strike Style A

Chime block style A For bottom strike and side strike units.  

Side Strike Style B

Chime block style B For side strike units. Occasionally, this may also be used for back strike diagonal Westminster units.

Back Strike Style C

Chime block style C is for floor clock models (and some wall clocks) with two rows of hammers on the back of the clock movement.

Chime sound in Clock Chime Block Styles

No matter which Clock Chime Block Style needed, there has to be some adjustments made. If the clock chime does not have a clear, crisp tone, do not panic. It could just be a matter of adjusting the hammers on the rods. The hammer heads are on wires which are meant to be bent. Do this with fingers, while the hammer head is down. Just bend the wire that the hammer head is on, one at a time. Keep the hammer head about 1/8” from the rod when it’s at rest. In other words, in the up position. Bend one at a time. Then, lift and drop it to see if there is a nice crisp tone. Subsequently, do this right down the line with each hammer on whatever chime block style. Make sure each one has a nice tone. In the long run, the chime will sound perfect.

Why Chime Hammer Positioning is required

Mechanical clock chime hammer positioning is easy to do, and only involves bending the hammer head wires. Upon the initial installation, this was done by the clock maker as well. When replacing a clock movement need to bend the chime hammers to the chime rods. This is why the hammer heads are on bendable wires. They are meant to be bent into the perfect position. It is not uncommon to bend them an inch this way or that way. The clock movement will not have the hammers in the perfect spot to make the correct sound when hitting the rods. This is why chime hammer positioning is so important.

Clock Chime Hammer Positioning

A mechanical clock movement has hammers that need to be bent into their final position. The clock-chime hammer position should be so the tops of the hammer heads are about 1/4 inch down from the chime block. The hammers need to be 1/8 inch away from the rod when at rest. In other words, bend the hammer wires so the head is 1/8 away from the chime rod. This spacing between the head and the rod is so it will not thud or double strike.

Tuning the mechanical clock chime

Down the line, and one hammer at a time, repeat this process. Continue in this manner until can lift and drop the hammer to create a crisp sound. If each hammer head is done this way the clock will have a nice song in the end. Often a customer will say the sound is not correct. It is because of improper hammer positioning that this occurs. When performing the above directions correctly the sound is beautiful.

Positioning the 340 / 341 series

The 340 and 341 Hermle clock movement series went through a change in the hammer wires. The hammer heads used to be on wires now they are made on flat bars. This is dealt with in the same way as above, it is just not as easy to bend. The hammer head is on the skinny end of the bar, the bar gets wider as it goes back toward the roll pin. The point to bend this bar is at the place where it goes from skinny to wide with needle nose pliers. The overall assembly will be higher from the chime block slightly. That is if swapping out the movement with the wire hammer head rod older style. It is an option to raise the entire chimeblock with a shim underneath it to help with this. It is not an absolute requirement, bending the hammer arms are usually sufficient.

For a clean crisp chime sound

Adjust the hammer wires

Should be about 1/8 away at rest

Sometimes they are bent extreme