Please view these information tabs to learn about our Mechanical Clock Chimeblock and Rods
Why we offer only the complete chime-block
We now only offer the complete clock chime-block and rods. The rods are a press fit into the chime-block by machines and it is difficult to get a single rod out. Other times there are threads that go into the block but have such a secure tight fit, you cannot remove them.
Trying to do so would result in more rods breaking. Also there are various threads on the rods that are the replacements and it can create much confusion. It is for these reasons that we now offer the complete clock chime-block and rods.
Overall, it is a tricky thing to get the correct thread size for the individual rod in a chime-block and rod set and have it fit perfect. Not to mention, when the chime-block rod is not the correct size, often enough it gets sent back. Then we get into the situation of trying to swap it out over and over.
Moreover, all of it eventually ends up being a return for a complete chime-block and rods set. So, in the long run it is best to just get a new chime block and rod set from the beginning. That will save a lot of time and frustration.
Chime-block and rods volume
The volume of the clock chime is not alterable by means of the chime-block and rods or the hammer adjustment. These parts have nothing to do with making the clock louder or softer. The only thing that can make the clock louder or quieter is to move the clock case.
If the clock is on a hard wood surface it will be louder. A rug will be quieter. The proximity to the wall can also alter the sound. It has nothing to do with the chime-block and rods.
Clock Chime Block Styles
The first step in purchasing a new chime block is to determine the chime block style that is in the clock.
The Styles are side, bottom and back strike.
Figure out which style you need. Then, count how many rods are in the chime block. Measure through the chime block to get the length of the longest rod.
Correspondingly, find this information on the drop down list for the correct chime block and rods.
Bottom Strike Style A
Chime block style A For bottom strike and side strike units.Side Strike Style B
Chime block style B For side strike units. Occasionally, you can also use this for back strike diagonal Westminster units.
Back Strike Style C
Chime block style C is for floor clock models (and some wall clocks) with two rows of hammers on the back of the clock movement.
Chime sound in Clock Chime Block Styles
No matter which Clock Chime Block Style you need, there has to be some adjustments made. If the clock chime does not have a clear, crisp tone, do not panic. It could just be a matter of adjusting the hammers on the rods.
The hammer heads are on wires which are meant to be bent. Do this with your fingers, while the hammer head is down.
Just bend the wire that the hammer head is on, one at a time. Keep the hammer head about 1/8” from the rod when it’s at rest. In other words, in the up position. Bend one at a time.
Then, lift and drop it to see if there is a nice crisp tone. Subsequently, do this right down the line with each hammer on whatever chime block style. Make sure each one has a nice tone. In the long run, the chime will sound perfect.
Why does Chime Hammer Positioning Need to Occur
Mechanical clock chime hammer positioning is easy to do, and only involves bending the hammer head wires. Upon the initial installation, this was done by the clock maker as well.
When replacing a clock movement need to bend the chime hammers to the chime rods. This is why the hammer heads are on bendable wires.
They are meant to be bent into the perfect position. It is not uncommon to bend them an inch this way or that way. The clock movement will not have the hammers in the perfect spot to make the correct sound when hitting the rods. This is why chime hammer positioning is so important.
Clock Chime Hammer Positioning
A mechanical clock movement has hammers that need to be bent into their final position. The clock-chime hammer position should be so the tops of the hammer heads are about 1/4 inch down from the chime block.
The hammers need to be 1/8 inch away from the rod when at rest. In other words, bend the hammer wires so the head is 1/8 away from the chime rod. This spacing between the head and the rod is so it will not thud or double strike.
Tuning the mechanical clock chime
Down the line, and one hammer at a time, repeat this process. Continue in this manner until you can lift and drop the hammer to create a crisp sound. If each hammer head is done this way the clock will have a nice song in the end.
Often a customer will say the sound is not correct. It is because of improper hammer positioning that this occurs. When performing the above directions correctly the sound is beautiful.
Positioning the 340 / 341 series
The 340 and 341 Hermle clock movement series went through a change in the hammer wires. The hammer heads were on wires but now they are made on flat bars. This is dealt with in the same way as above, it is just not as easy to bend.
The hammer head is on the skinny end of the bar, the bar gets wider as it goes back toward the roll pin.
The point to bend this bar is at the place where it goes from skinny to wide with needle nose pliers. The overall assembly will be higher from the chime block slightly. That is if swapping out the movement with the wire hammer head rod older style.
It is an option to raise the entire chimeblock with a shim underneath it to help with this. It is not an absolute requirement, bending the hammer arms are usually sufficient.

For a clean crisp chime sound

Adjust the hammer wires

Should be about 1/8 away at rest

Sometimes they are bent extreme
Grandfather Clock Chime Block
Chime block in a V shape form for many grandfather clocks. This fits many of the German made post 1950 floor clocks. Use the screws that come with the chime block to mount it to the back of the clock case. You need to measure the length of the longest rod from tip to tip through the block.
Mounting the Chime Block
The chime block comes with the four bolts that screw it in place, with 4 washers. Of course, you will need four holes through a back board to be able to have this mount in the air on the back side of the clock. Usually you attach this back board to, or near, the back panel of the clock case.
I have a model 299M grandfather clock from the Emperor clock company. Of the 12 rod chimes it has in total, the longest one of the four on the left hand side when you face the clock has broken. It is 26.5 inches long, from the tip of the chime to the end of the brass cylinder at the other end. Do you have the chime set to replace this set of 12 rod chimes (as you look at the clock, 4 on the left, and 8 on the right). I can send three photos of the broken chime and chime block if that would help. I just need to know where to send them to. Thank you, Michael.
On this very page you can order a replacement chime block with rods. Do not have the rod single as it usually does not work out. This is because there are various tap / thread sizes and often the rods are stamped in and not threaded at all. Please keep in mind the bolt pattern for the new block may or may not be the same as the old, it maybe required to drill mounting holes in a different spot on the clock case.
James Stoudenmire
30yr Clockmaker
Author of Clockworks.com
My clock’s chime rods bang against each other when the clock chimes. How can I stop them doing that..short of trying to bend them apart and risk breaking them.
Hi,
That is the only way to separate the chimes from hitting each other when you walk across the room or when its chiming. Bend them away from each other and of course risk breaking one off.
James Stoudenmire
30yr Clockmaker
Author of Clockworks.com
Sorry for the late reply. I found a way….I cut a small piece of white foam packing material and threaded it on to one of the two colliding rods from the lower end The material created a barrier between the rods and now they don’t bang against each other any more! They sound fine too…no muffling. No bending needed!
Great job !
James Stoudenmire
30yr Clockmaker
Author of Clockworks.com
I need to buy a SKU: GO1C-1225 with 8 rods only, tuned to Westminster Chime. I need 2 if possible. Do you have these?
Hi,
Yes we have them. Please order this chimeblock with 8 rods 4/4
https://www.clockworks.com/product/grandfather-clock-chime-block-back-strike-with-hardware
James Stoudenmire
30yr Clockmaker
Author of Clockworks.com
Hi James, do you have a circa 1950-1970 style in SKU: GO1C? The one your link lead me to looks like a Hermle modern gong block. I need the style of SKU: GO1C but with 8 rods tuned to Westminster Chime. I require two of them.
Steve
Do not have old stock. This will work fine however the bolt pattern may or may not be the same
James Stoudenmire
30yr Clockmaker
Author of Clockworks.com
Thanks – tried to order two, but at checkout it told me you don’t ship to Australia. Will have to keep looking elsewhere. Thanks anyway.
Steve
Will the V rod Chime Block work the same as the Straight Rod Chime Block?
Yes
I need a chime block containing 8 rods, “v” shape style, rear mount style. This is for a Diamantini Domeniconi Grandfather clock with a FHS (Franz Hermle) 453-051 H, 94 cm. movement. The original chime block has the number “10” engraved on it and the longest rod is 19 1/2″ long. It is a rear mount with 4 fasteners, the top two fasteners located 3 1/8 inches apart, the bottom two fasteners 2 5/8″ apart, with the bottom two fasteners being 2 5/8″ inches below the top two.
That clock movement usually takes the straight rod chimeblock with 8 rods from this link
https://www.clockworks.com/product/grandfather-clock-chime-block-back-strike-with-hardware
I understand your thinking the V shape, either one works for that unit. Straight or V. However, they usually take the straight.
James
I have a Charles R Sligh grandfather clock with a back strike. It is a triple chime with 4 rods on the left and 8 on the right. Unfortunately, I cant find the model number only the historical register number on the plate. Would this be the correct chime block to purchase? Thank you!
Hi
That clock will take this chime block with 12 rods in 27 inch from this link https://www.clockworks.com/product/grandfather-clock-chime-block
James
Many Thanks !
James and Donna Stoudenmire http://www.clockworks.com 124 Goss Hill = UPS Mailing PO Box 339 = USPS Mailing Huntington, MA 01050 USA clockworks@clockworks.com
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I have a Ridgeway grandfather clock #266. The longest rod appears to be between 25 and 26 inches. Do I need a 27 inch rod.
Yes 27
I have a 12 chime Ridgeway Grandfather clock model #266. But the longest rod appears to be between over 25 and 26 inches. Do I need to order a 27 “
Yes 27 inch.
One of my clocks is a Baldwin grandfather clock. I think it’s identical to a Howard Miller. I’m want to replace the v-shaped chime block, 27 in., 4 rods one side, 8 the other side (3 melodies). I hope the part that you show is a perfect match. The style of the Baldwin clock is CV746N.
HI
I cant say if the mount will be the exact same but it will be right for the movement. Please order the 12 rod 27 inch chime block from this link https://www.clockworks.com/product/grandfather-clock-chime-block
Are the chime rods with 12 rods and 27 inch support in hermle 1171-850 with 114cm movement ?
Yes takes 12 rods in 27 inch long
I’m looking for a chime block that has 12 rods but the longest rod 18 inch
Would that be for a rear hammer clock?
In other words will it be 8 on one side and 4 on the other?
Hi. I have a Howard Miller 601-193. The chime block has been removed and is missing! I have 12 hammers; eight on one side and four opposing about 7/8-1″ apart. I do not have the old chime block. Can you suggest or direct me to a potential replacement. Thanks.
That would be chimeblock style C with 12 rods in V shape and about 26 inches from this link https://www.clockworks.com/product/rear-mount-chime-block-and-rods-set
I need to buy an 8 rod , rear mount style , V shape set of chime rods. But the hammers on my movement are 4 inches apart. I have a 72 RK 93cm (Kieninger) set of works and I am trying to match the chime rods to it. I do not have a set of Chime rods to match it to.
Yes please order style C with 8 rods in around 22-26 inches long. They do not have to be V shape they can be straight or V.
Positioning the chime hammers
A mechanical clock movement has hammers that have to be bent into final position. It should be positioned so the tops of the hammer heads are about 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch down from the chime block . The hammer heads should rest about 1/8 inch away from the rod it will strike.
Bend the hammer wires as to make the head about 1/8 away from the chime rod in other words. This spacing between the head and the rod is so it will not thud or double hit. Down the line and one hammer at a time this is done until you can lift it and drop the hammer to create a crisp sound. If each hammer head is done this way the clock will have a nice song in the end.