Mechanical clock hand nuts
One of the most common parts a Mechanical clock needs is the hand nut. As previously stated, the older the clock the harder things are to find. The hand nuts Clockworks offer are for movements made after the 1930's.
Prior to 1930 clock hand nuts
There were not many standards on what the hand nut size should be on the early clocks. However, prior to around 1930 there is no telling what will work. In other words, it is literally trial and error. There was no standard hand nut size. Any hand nut we offer, may, or may not, work. This includes cuckoo hand nuts, American clock hand nuts, or German hand nuts. However, with even all of these assortments, there is a chance none of them will work on the clock.
Post 1930 clock hand nuts
Generally speaking, what we have to offer in the three types of clock hand nuts will cover most of the post 1930 Mechanical clocks. The cuckoo hand nuts fit about 80% of the post war German made cuckoo clocks. The American clock hand nuts fit many of the mechanical time strikes that were so popular. German hand nuts fit most post war German made mechanical clocks, with the exception being a few large grandfather clocks.
Clocks that do not take a hand nut
Not all clocks require a hand nut. Some antique mechanical clocks require a clock hand washer and a tapered pin instead. These secure the minute hand as an alternative to the hand nut. The washer may have a small square hole, or large, oblong or round hole. Clockworks offers an assortment of 100 clock hand washers that includes all the styles mentioned. A tapered pin is used to secure the hand with the washer on top of it. The taper pin is inserted into a hole in the end of the minute hand arbor to secure the washer and minute hand to the clock. A taper pin is a small brass or steel rod that is wide on one end and skinny on the other. Clockworks offers them in an assortment of 100 to ensure the right one is there.
Clicks and click springs
Mechanical clocks with a ratchet wheel use clicks. This can mean a spring driven clock or a weight driven clock. Clicks keep it wound in only one direction. Both have a ratcheting function as in a wheel being able to turn one way only. It spins one way and makes a clicking sound when this is done. That clicking sound is the click. This is the small part that makes the wheel turn in only one direction. The click is held in the down position with some pressure from what is known as a click spring.
Clicks on spring driven movements
Often when a mainspring breaks the click will loosen considerably from the shock. Replace or tighten the loose click to ensure it will not let go when winding the clock with the key. It is not uncommon to think the mainspring broke when really the click eventually came loose and let the mainspring slip. Once the click on the ratchet slips the mainspring lets loose and momentum of it unwinding is unstoppable.
Clicks on weight driven movements
In general, this is a harder style to replace and not really available on the market. If these are needed for a weight driven ratchet wheel it is best to replace the entire wheel. Replacing the entire wheel will include the ratchet wheel, the arbor it is on and also the gear. It will have the click and spring installed all as one unit. This maybe the ratchet wheel on a chain driven clock or a cable drum for a cable driven clock. In both situations it is best to replace the entire component with the click and spring installed. That way is it complete and done the best and quickest way.
Clock Chime block Mounts
These are the Clock Chime block Mounts that comes with 2 screws and 2 washers in order to attach the chime block to the clock case. The chime block has threaded holes usually and these screws go through the case and into the chime block. These are the universal thread size for most chime blocks.