Kieninger clock movement identification
The first step to replace the movement or any components is to first do the identification process on the Kieninger clock movement. To get the new clock movement price and what it includes, we start with the numbers. The numbers are also required to get components of the clock also. Components include pendulums, dials, hands, keys, cranks, chime blocks, mounting screws, weights, pulleys or chains.
Decoding Kieninger clock movements
For example lets say the movement numbers are 81 K 116cm.
- 1981 =The first numbers 81 is the year made if it is an on older unit. On the new units this number is not the year but only an internal engineering code.
- K = The K is the movements series. This is the basic raw movement plate size and internal gear configuration.
- 116CM = The pendulum length in centimeters measured from the top of the movement all the down. Based on the smallest 4 1/2 inch bob diameter.
Dating the Kieninger movement
Above is stated 81 was the date, however this has changed in the later years. After a certain date that first number is no longer the date produced. So it may or may not be the date, but you can just ignore that first number when replacing the unit. There is no longer a solid way to date the Kieninger clock movement unless it is stamped on the plate.
We can help
The new movement will fit into the clock case just as the old one did. Keep using the same components such as the dial, pendulum, chime block and weights. If it is a weight driven clock it will come with the chains or cables with pulleys. If this decoding process is confusing, just email the numbers or a picture to [email protected] Kieninger clock movement questions and ordering can be done by phone also 800-381-7458.
How to order
You will need CM number off of the Kieninger clock movement itself. Not off the paper work, not off the wood case. It will say a number such as 93CM or 116CM, some number followed by CM (centimeters).
Measuring note = The Germans measure there pendulum length from the TOP of the movement and all the way down to the very bottom of the pendulum rating nut threads. This could make things confusing for the customer and also this measurements varys drastically depending on the bob diameter. So the length can be tricky but lucky for you, you do not need to know all this. If your clock says something like 93cm, just choose 93cm from the list with your desired bob diameter, and we will take care of the length. The reason why this is explained here, is sometimes a customer gets the pendulum and measures it, and says "hey this pendulum does not measure 93CM and therefore it is wrong" but this is not the situation. A pendulum FOR a Keininger 93cm movement, does not mean you will get a 93cm long pendulum, it will be shorter.
Bob note = If you do not have a pendulum your replacing and its lost, we need to also figure out what bob diameter will swing around inside the case without hitting the sides. Usually people want the largest bob diameter they can get without it hitting the sides of the case. So how we figure this out is to measure how wide the inside of the clock is where the pendulum will swing. You now have some measurement like 14.5 inches or something, we deduct 4 inches from this number = 6 1/2 inches is the widest bob diameter you would want to get. You can get whatever is smaller, but dont go larger. For example you do not want a 8 1/2 inch bob because it will hit the sides, but you can use a 5 1/2 inch or 6 1/2 inch bob just fine.
Here are the steps to order the pendulum =
- 1. Know your movement is made by Keininger by seeing above movement number examples.
- 2. Get the CM numbers off of the back plate of the movement itself.
- 3. Determine the bob diameter needed by measuring how wide the inside of the case is and then subtracting 4 inches.
- 4. Decide if you want a Metal fancy Lyre style pendulum, or a Wood stick pendulum, or a brass rod pendulum if the option is there. They all come with a brass round bob at the bottom in the diameter you choose, but what it hangs on can be any of those mentioned (lyre, stick, brass rod.)
- 5. Order it
When you get your pendulum you will need to put your clock in beat for it to run. This is very easy.
Please note, the picture is of a Kieninger Lyre pendulum for a 116cm movement with twisted rods. If the pendulum is for a 93cm or shorter movement CM it will have straight rods instead.
Beat Setting Mechanical Clock Movements
Beat Setting Mechanical Clock Movements means the tick and the tock sound of the clock is evenly spaced. Every pendulum clock that is mechanical needs to be put in beat to run. This is so simple but it's amazing how many clocks in the world have not run for 10 years or more just because this is not known. Often clocks in tag sales, auctions, homes, etc. only needed to be put in beat to run but was left unused for years. The setting of the beat is easy and takes less than a couple minutes to do.
Every mechanical pendulum unit needs it
Every mechanical clock that has a pendulum needs to be in beat to function. Part of owning a clock is to know how to do this. If you do not know how to do this whenever you move the clock from here to there it will stop after 5 - 10 minutes. Putting the clock in beat is very easy.
Putting a post WW2 German clock in beat
Modern German clocks are put into beat by over swinging the pendulum all the way to one side and letting go. This is called auto beat and is on most post WW2 German clock movements. If the clock does not have this feature it will not hurt the clock by trying this method. Listen to the tick tock and check if they are now evenly spaced. If it is stick going ticktock ticktock, or even tocktick tocktick it is not in beat. The clock will eventually stop in 5 minutes to an hour. Repeat the above process of pulling the pendulum all the way to one side and letting it go if it was not right the first time. The clock should have a nice steady rhythmic tick-tock tick-tock, with equal time lapsing between the two.
Skinny clock case beat setting
When the clock is not an auto beat or the clock case has a narrow width, beat setting is done in a different way. Adjustment of the beat is done by pushing the top of the pendulum left or right as it hangs in its clock case. Hold a lower portion of the pendulum with the left hand and push the top of the pendulum left or right with the right hand. The freedom in the pendulum to move left or right has some resistance at the sides of the travel. The beat of the clock is changed when the pendulum goes beyond this resistance. Don’t be afraid to move this pendulum top left or right as there is nothing to break.
The beat is the rhythmic pulsations of the escape wheel clicking over one tooth at a time. This results in the sound tick / tock as each tooth "escapes" from the rocking anchor that blocks it. The anchor rocks back and forth from the pendulum motion and is only on its arbor by friction fit. In other words it will rotate independently of the arbor it is riding on. The tick or tock sends a jumping pulse action to what is known as a crutch and that wacks the pendulum slightly each swing. The pendulums momentum back and forth with being wacked by the crutch that comes down a little, keeps it going and going. Provided its even left and right or in other words the tick and tock are even.